Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Tuesday 9 February 2010

09-02-10, Creag Meagaidh - Winter Climbing



Back to Creag Meagaidh again today, this time with Kathryn and Dave. Another beautiful day in the highlands, dry and cold, with a glorious sunrise and blue skies all day long. We headed up Raeburn's Gully to have a look at Smiths Gully VI,5 (Cold Climbs classic), however there was already a team in it. So we headed a little higher and climbed Richie's Gully IV,4. Not to be disappointed, this was a great climb, stiff ice pitch (right) at the start followed by a couple more easier pitches in a defined gully, before being able to top out and avoid the humongous cornice looming at the top! We descended Raeburn's Gully which has got to be contended for the steepest grade I gully in Scotland! Picture below shows Dave pointing the way through the cave like blue icicle structure which is a steep grade V,5 climb at the top of the gully.
Picture above shows the corrie in its full glory, loads of snow, ice and cornices. The snow is hard neve all the way up. High pressure set to stay in the highlands for the next few days so bring it on!!

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