Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Saturday 23 October 2010

22-10-10, Southern Limestone - Rock Climbing

Dancing Ledges, Swanage.



Since being back in the UK I have had a busy couple of weeks, mainly rock climbing for fun. Myself and James had a couple of days climbing in West Yorkshire at the favourites of Brimham and Almscliffe. We climbed many of the classic VS and HVS routes.

I had a few days work in Snowdonia with Wiltshire College taking students on a Public Services course out to give them a assessment of their land based management skills for their BTEC diploma. We had a 2-day expedition over Snowdon and Glyders in glorious cold crisp weather and on the last day went to Anglesey to do some sea-level traversing.

I have spent the last 8 days with Kath on a southern Limestone road trip. We headed to the Wye Valley and climbed many of the classic HVS / E1s at Shorncliffe. We also visited Wynd Cliff and Wintour's Leap and climbed the Zelda,HS.

On our way to Swanage and Portland we dropped by the Avon Gorge outside of Bristol and climbed Ken Wilsons 'Classic' and 'Hard Rock' climbs of Piton Route,VS and Malbogies,HVS. The Limestone gorge was, as is to be expected, quite polished and Malbogies (photo below) did seem to be a tad hard for the grade, but was an enjoyable way up the cliff.

We had a day at Swanage and Climbed at Guillemot Ledge, Batt Crack (photo right) and Cattle Troughs, we then had a couple of days sport climbing at Portland. The weather was great, sunshine and not too cold. Portland is a great destination for British winter Rock Climbing.
Upon returning to Snowdonia, we have heavy rain, hail and it is fairly windy.


Malbogies, HVS Avon Gorge.

Kath seconding 'The Laughing Cavaliers' HVS, at Shorncliffe, Wye Valley.

James getting stuck into some good Yorkshire hard work on 'Central Crack' VS at Brimham.

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