Paul James, MIC - Mountain-Expertise.co.uk - Winter and Rock Climbing Conditions

Friday 3 February 2012

03-02-12, An Teallach, Beinn Alligin, NW Highlands - Winter Mountaineering

An Teallach with Sgurr Fiona.
The last week I have been working in the North West of Scotland on a Winter Mountaineering Course for Martin Moran. Conditions and weather have been fantastic all week. Snow level around 750m, has been stable and crispy! Cold in the evenings with plenty of flat ice about on the paths and bogs. I was out with 3 clients all week, for some it was the first week on crampons for others it was a week to brush off the cobwebs and make the most of the fine NW mountaineering ridges. The first day Sunday we headed to Fuar Tholl, and climbed Access Gully (II), in slightly soggy condition, but by Monday morning everything had refrozen hard, A traverse of Beinn Alligin (I), looking at rope work over the horns, Traverse of the Black Carls (I) on Beinn Eighe, then a bothy trip with a traverse of An Teallach (II). Climbing conditions are excellent at the moment, hard bomber neve and ice in gullies and some ice and rime ice on the faces.

The Horns on Beinn Alligin, Beinn Dearg and Beinn Eighe in the distance.

The Black Carls, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe, Beinn Eighe.

The Black Carls, Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe, Beinn Eighe.

Eag Dubh, Beinn Alligin.

Beinn Dearg Mor, Loch na Sealga, An Teallach.

Toll an Lochain, An Teallach.

Traversing on the side of the fourth pinnacle of Corrag Bhuidhe, An Teallach.

An Teallach ridge Corrag Bhuidhe.

An Teallach ridge from Sail Liath.

Richard, very happy after completing the An Teallach ridge.

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